Showing posts with label scenic pix. Show all posts
Showing posts with label scenic pix. Show all posts

Saturday, 2 April 2011

Small boats, Great Lake, Bay Close-up.

       "A fella beeped up in an automobile, said you wanna work in the tobacco fields..."
                                                                                                -Stompin' Tom Connors

     Better grab a refreshment now.  This one's a long one.

     In an earlier post I scribbled:
     "There seems to be something about the extreme southern regions of every country that makes them a little different from the rest of the surrounding nation. The Riviera is nothing like Normandy, Brixham isn't Cambridge, Melbourne's not Sidney and New Orleans sure as hell ain't Kansas, Toto.

    I am not going to theorize on the reasons why this downward-bound eccentricity occurs, I just know that it seems to hold true.  Maybe it isn't a matter of direction as much as it is proximity to a large body of water, but if it was only water, Baffin Island would be much more interesting than it actually is.  So, it seems like the "south" part is an integral component of this spell.  Adding more empirical evidence to this theory is the fact that Norfolk County is not like any other place in Canada."

   And then proceeded to babble about something completely different.  Now that we've got the Lake Erie overview out of the way, I figured I should go back and pick up on this theme.

    When Dollier and Galinee decided to Park in the Bay, they met the Neutral Indians, whose fortunes were caused to Reverse by the European Drive to explore , leaving their numbers Low.
Oh come on, it's not like you wouldn't automatically go for the cheap chuckle as well.
Okay, I'll stop, before somebody beats me with a stick.
That was the last one.  I promise.

      In time the bay became home to British settlers, notably United Empire Loyalists escaping from the Thirteen Colonies who established farms and mills and an ironworks and life was pretty much Little House on The Prairie-esque, except for Long Point itself.  We'll cover that sandspit of eniquity in a later post, but it was a pretty rough neck of the woods before the US Civil War.   Port Rowan, Port Ryerse, Normandale, Turkey Point and Port Dover were founded.  Fishing became  a big industry toward the end of the 19th century, about the time that Port Dover started to became known as a tourist destination.  On the whole,  things stayed pretty staid in sleepy Norfolk County until the mid-20th century, when a new crop became popular....
...Tobacco.



      Until WW II, wheat and corn were the big commodities in the county, but after the war, farmers were quick to see the big rteturn from small acreage that tobacco could provide.  Nobody local knew how to grow or pick the stuff, so croppers were imported from the southern United States and French Canadian migrant workers handled the grunt work.  By the 1950s, Norfolk County was the heart of the Tobacco Belt,  boasting tobacco auctions and huge tobacco warehouses, and the influx of newcomers made a mark on the region.

   (The next bit is best read in your best Casey Kasem voice.)

     One of those newcomers was a young guy from Arkansas named Ronnie Hawkins. Not a tobacco cropper per se, young Mr. Hawkins followed the tobacco road north, figuring, on the advice of Conway Twitty, that there might be a market among transplanted Southerners for the sounds of home.  He formed a local  version of his Arkansas band, the Hawks, with his old pal Levon Helm,  newcomers Robbie Robertson, Richard Manuel, Garth Hudson and Simcoe's Rick Danko, and played clubs and small country dancehalls throughout the Tobacco Belt.  The Hawks garnered some serious acclaim and respect from their contemporaries; Bob Dylan liked the Hawks so much, he persuaded them to leave Hawkins and back him instead.  Later, they went onto considerable success on their own as The Band.


     By the late 1980s the southerners were long gone and the Quebecois were moving on,  replaced by Mexican and Caribbean seasonal employees.   Thousands of "off-shore" workers toiled in the fields during the growing season, and they brought their cuisine with them.   Many of them liked the area so much they decided to stay, leading to a thriving Caribbean community.  Today, most grocery stores around the bay stock a locally made tortillas, salsa verde, jerk sauce and tamarind soda,  and there are a growing number of  venues serving authentic Mexican and Caribbean comfort food.

     Meanwhile, at the opposite end of the bay, an industrial revolution was underway.  In the 1970s Ontario Hydro built one of the largest generating plants on the continent at Nanticoke, and a steel mill and oil refinery soon followed. Apparently, Ontario was running short on engineers and homegrown power plant know-how when all of this heavy development was taking place, because a large number of the longtime employees originally hail from Scotland and Wales, adding their own imprint to our cultural mosaic.


The planned city of Townsend was designed to house the warm bodies needed for this  industrial megolith, a population projected to exceed 100 000.

  It never happened.  Townsend today is a sleepy bedroom community with a few hundred residents, no retail establishments, and no plans for any future growth.


       Just as big things were happening on the farmland, life on the bay was changing as well.  The perch fishery boomed, and with the big demand for perch came a demand for bigger fish tugs.

  As the boats grew, they outgrew smaller ports like Port Ryerse and Port Rowan, leading to their decline in economic importance while boosting the economy of Port Dover, one of the only ports on the Lake that could accomodate the boats,  the gear that support them, and the fish processors who handle the catch.

      Tourism was changing as well.  Bikers discovered Port Dover, and Port Dover discovered bikers.  While other communities would likely throw up roadblocks if thousands of black clad Harley riders rode toward town, Port Dover rolls out the welcome mat every Friday the 13th.  In the early 80s a group of motorcycle riding friends decided to meet in Port Dover for an informal get together on Friday the 13th.  Since then the event has exploded, thanks to support from the community.  In 2010, on the 50th Friday 13th rally, it is estimated that upwards of 100 000 people showed up. The next one is Friday May 13th- Docksters, should we have a gathering to start the season?
http://www.pd13.com/dates.html



    Because of the huge numbers of motorcycles and spectators who attend, the town is closed to four wheel traffic for the day. Although "Parking is available outside of town and shuttles run continuously" as the ads point out, there's no better way to experience the 13th than from a boat.
  

      The Victorian and Edwardian era of genteel bathing and rowing a punt in a boater and jacket has given way to...
...Pottahawk.


   Every July thousands of boats and boaters flock to Pottahawk Point on the shore of the Point for music and babes and bikinis and booze.



       Pottahawk is to Turkey Point what Friday the 13th is to Port Dover.  Turkey Point is all about having fun, with a number of bars, restaurants, PWC rentals,  a cottage industry of cottage rentals, which all grew thanks to a long beautiful beach.  More Pottahawk info:   http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=60027933849


     Alright, if you've read all the posts to this point, now you're up to speed on the who, what, how and where.  I'm not sure I can even begin to explain why.


   As always, thanks for checking us out.  Please feel free to "Talk the Dock."  Link us, follow us, tell your friends!

Sunday, 20 March 2011

Dock Six Shoreside: Tributary Tutorial #1

  
      "I've roamed and rambled and followed my footsteps..."
                                                                    -Woody Guthrie




      Although it may be the Center of The Universe, Dock Six is a small part of a much bigger picture,  Long Point Bay.  We'll gunkhole the Bay in future posts, but before we can gunkhole we need water in the bay to float our boats, and that water has to come from somewhere, and one of those somewheres is the Lynn River.  One of the fringe benefits of the location of  stately Jones manor in Simcoe is that we live just hundreds of yards (and metres for that matter,) from the Lynn River, and the slow route from Simcoe to Port Dover, the Lynn Valley Trail.

http://www.lynnvalleytrail.ca/



   Friday was one of the first truly gorgeous days of the year;  warm, sunny, perfect for walking dogs.  So, Louise and I leashed up the mutts,  strapped Finn into his bark collar so he didn't disturb the Trail's wildlife, grabbed the camera and set out.  It doesn't take long to leave any semblance of urban life behind:

      The arborial diversity in Norfolk county is unique.  Along the Trail you sometimes feel like you could be in Northern Ontario,  British Columbia or the Maritimes, all within a kilometer or two.
     The main trail is an abandoned rail bed, largely smooth and arrow-straight, but there are numerous unimproved trails which meander along the river, allowing access to a forgotten and almost erased agro- industrial past.

 



I was glad that Finn was wearing his bark collar- it meant that I could sneak up on the first returning Canada Geese I had seen.  Now THIS is a sign of spring!


    Finnegan also noticed that bark collar = stealth:






       Finn was overjoyed at finally being able to get THAT CLOSE to those feathered honking things.  The bark collar did not survive the swim.  Finn is likely not too upset about that.  




     

Wednesday, 9 March 2011

Reason #39 Why Summer is Better Than Winter

     "I had my hands in the river, my feet back up on the banks..."
                                                                       -The Tragically Hip



   When the ice breaks up in the summer, it makes it easier to fit in your drink.  When the ice breaks up in the winter, it ain't quite as idyllic.

    This is what the Grand River looked like late this afternoon in Cayuga:



     More rain and rising temps are forecast overnight, with another 30 mm of wet stuff to land by Friday.   There has already been some flooding and if this stuff gets moving downstream it could get really ugly.  The upside is that the Lake is going to get some badly needed additional moisture, hopefully raising the water level.

Sunday, 20 February 2011

Location, Location, Location.

     
     "Two thousand miles I've roamed, just to make this dock my home..."
                                                                                             -Otis Redding


















     The Port Dover Harbour Marina is a largish facility boasting well-lit, well-kept docks with electricity and water, all within easy walking distance of the washrooms, pavilion and ice machines...
 except Dock Six.

    Dock Six has no water, no electricity, no pavilions, and the solar lights mysteriously disappeared prior to the '09 season.  Want to take a shower? Tie on your Rockports- from the tip of Dock Six  it is a 1 kilometer walk around the marina, past docks 5, 4, 3, and 2 to get to the bath house. ( Luckily the facilities are pleasant and clean with good water pressure and lots of hot water.)

    In fact, based on the evidence, Dock Six may be entirely fictional, a myth, a low-rent northern Margaritaville.  Look at the picture at the top of this post, (shamelessly borrowed from the Marina's own website)-  Dock Six is nowhere to be seen.  Check out Google Earth- Again, nuthin.  Navionics charts, C-Map, Garmin?  All show water, where 60 slips exist in real life.  I'll prove it.  Below is photo documentation of the dock's existence:




            Anonymity has it's perqs.  Fewer (okay, no)  amenities means lower slip costs, fewer people means less noise, and the lack of water and power means that few boat owners overnight on their boats.  In fact, throughout the season we are often the only people on the dock after sundown.   Speaking of sundown, I think we have the best sunset viewing in the entire place:

               We also have a straight run out of the harbour mouth- no narrow fairways to navigate.   If you are a habitual boatwatcher like myself, there is the added bonus of every boat in the marina passing by.  I've picked up a number of rigging tips and refitting ideas simply from watching other boats sail past.  Also, on an admittedly less charitable note,  if a slipholder's return to the marina  is, er, Coast Guard- assisted, we get to witness the "Sailpast of Shame."
    Yeah, it's a bit of a walk to the shower, and we have to be more conscious of our water and power consumption than those who have dockside umbilicals, but the benefits outweigh the liabilities enough to keep us, and most of the other slipholders returning to Dock Six season after season.